May 21, 201
To me, Bath is a setting for novels by, about, or featuring Jane Austen. Today, I learned that is only one very small chapter in the story of this town. It has been the spa and holiday destination of Britain since the 11th century when Romans discovered the natural hot springs and began to build a spa and temple on the site.
The “Roman Baths” from the Regency era had fallen into disrepair. Homes and other building had been built on the site. While doing renovations, they discovered the site of the original Roman Baths and things took off from there. The technology, plumbing, artwork, design, and architecture of from over a thousand years ago are mind boggling. They excavated almost the entire site in 1939 and people actually used it until 1979 (when a young woman came down with meningitis. It is now strictly a historical site with clear signage saying do not stick your hand in the water.)
You can still drink (what I trust is a filtered version of) the water. It is warm and has a distinctly iron taste.
People came for centuries hoping to be healed by the mineral waters. As much as I love Epsom salts in a hot bath, I can see the value of that.
After the Romans left (who knows why, because this place is the bomb), it was a generic village that happened to have hot springs. There are still sections of walls from the Middle Ages standing. Then, in the mid-1700s it became THE destination for fun, rich, fashionable English people who wanted to get out of London. John Wood the elder designed the architecture that is now the signature look and defines Georgian architecture. He died before his vision could be completed, so his son, John Wood the younger, completed both the Circus (Three groups of townhouses that form a large circle around a park) and the Crescent (a half circle of townhouses). Most were designed to be rented for the season either as complete houses for the very rich or in flats or rooms for the less wealthy.
We toured one that has been kept exactly as it was in the late 1700s. I didn’t realize how many homes in Nashvile (including mine) have embraced the Georgian style. Seriously, I know it was supposed to be a museum, but it looked exactly like any number of beautiful homes in Belle Meade. (Note to self, buy more modern art.)
We toured the Assembly rooms that were the center of the social scene during the Regency. They were badly bombed during WWII, but have been faithfully restored. They were featuring a fashion exhibit that had original clothing from the last two centuries including the clothing of many women in the royal family. I was struck by how beautiful and impractical clothing was until World War I forced a change in both fashion and society.
We had a Somerset Tea at the Pump Rooms, the other social center during Jane Austen’s day. I have now eaten a Scotch Egg. (Evans did not). It was good as was the tea, apple cake with clotted cream, and mug of ale. It is a good thing we walked so much.
We finished with a tour of Bath Abbey. It was smaller than the cathedrals and St. George’s Chapel, but no less beautiful.
We finally had a brief rainstorm, but instead of spoiling our day, it just cooled off the heat and brought in a nice breeze.
Tomorrow we head to the Cotswolds.